Khor Virap Monastery

If you choose to visit The Monastery of Geghard whilst you are in Armenia, it may well be that Khor Virap Monastery, located 2.5 miles from Lusarvat Village in the Ararat Valley (or 19 miles north of Yerevan), will also be of interest to you.  Situated on a hill close to the snow-capped peaks of Mount Ararat (the national symbol of Armenia) and surrounded by archaeological sites (started in 1970 but still being excavated in the present day), this historical edifice affords visitors magnificent views of both the mountain and the green belt along the Arax (or Arakas) River, which represents the boundary with Turkey (where there are a series of military lookout posts).

Khor Virap Monastery

History

Khor Virap is one of the top tourist destinations in Armenia because of the part it played in shaping the history of Armenia.  Khor Virap literally translates as ‘deep dungeon’ and it was named such because a deep dungeon, located in Artashat, was where the pagan King Tiridates III imprisoned his assistant, Grigor Lusavorich (Saint Gregory the Illuminator). 

Prior to his imprisonment, Grigor was relentlessly tortured because of his commitment to the Christian religion and his refusal to offer sacrifice to the pagan goddess Anahita.  However, after the King was given notice that his father had been murdered by Grigor’s father, he ordered that Grigor should, instead, have his hands and legs bound, be thrown in to the deep, dark pit and left to die.  Over the next 13 years, Grigor was forgotten by the King and presumed dead (and probably would have died if it hadn’t been for a Christian widow that dropped him food in to the pit, every day). 

During Grigor’s imprisonment, the King continued to pursue wars, persecute Christians and commit unspeakable atrocities (including the murder of Rhipsime) and was eventually sent mad as penance for his actions.  As the King went mad, both his household and the people of the city were said to fall under the possession of demons.  However, King Tiridates’ sister dreamt of an angel who told her that Grigor could end the torments of the King and his people.  It was thought that Grigor had died within days of being cast in to the pit, but when Prince Awtay went to look, he found that the King’s former assistant was, indeed, alive.  Brought out of the pit in a terrible state, Grigor was taken to the King, miraculously curing him of his ailment, despite knowing the atrocities that the King had committed. 

In thankfulness for what Grigor had done, the King and his court approached him for forgiveness for the sins they had perpetrated and adopted Christianity as their new faith.  Grigor was afforded the title of Bishop of Caesarea and began preaching Christianity to the King, his court and his army and, in 301 AD, Christianity was declared as the state religion of Armenia.

Structure

Erected by the builder Nerses III in the 5^th century, the original chapel that was built around the pit where Saint Gregory the Illuminator spent his 13 years of captivity was constructed of white limestone.  The monastery, which stands today, was built later around the enclosure that surrounded the ruins of Nerses’ Chapel and the final addition of the large, but plain, church dedicated to Saint Astvatsatsin was made in the 17^th century and is, apparently, a typical Armenian build of that time.  It to the southwest of this church, in the St. Gevorg chapel, that Saint Gregory’s pit can be located.  Be warned: there are actually two holes which are accessible to the public in this building, but care must be taken as there are no markings to indicate their presence to you! 

However, although you may like to explore both holes, you will find the one that leads to the pit that held Saint Gregory in the main room, to the right of the altar.  A long ladder leads you down in to the pit, which descends 20 feet (or 6 metres) below ground.  Once there, you may find yourself surprised at the fact that this underground prison cell is 14 feet across.  Although, if you imagine it without any light whatsoever and with a lack of circulation, then it must have been a miserable place to have spent 13 years of your life.

What to Expect

This is still an active place of worship and, as such, you will still see weddings being held here.  Again, please be respectful of these ceremonies.

However, Khor Virap is a huge tourist destination, so also expect vibrancy...with performances, souvenir kiosks, snack stands and...best of all...doves being sold for release, in the hope that they will fly to Mount Ararat.

Tourist Advice

If you are planning to visit in the Armenian summer, temperatures can become very high; therefore, it may be best to consider visiting in the morning.

If you are planning to climb down to St. Gregory’s cell when visiting Khor Virap, ensure you wear sturdy shoes in preparation for the climb down the ladder.  Also, if you are planning to do this in the heat of the Armenian summer, the lack of circulation means the cell is exceptionally humid; therefore, be advised that taking a flashlight/torch with you may be preferable to taking candles (as these only add to the humidity).

Due to the fact that you are visiting what is considered to still be an active place of worship, be respectful of this and ensure that you are appropriately dressed (long sleeves and covered to your knees).

Trip Adviser Ratings and Testimonials

Khor Virap is ranked as the Number 3 Armenian tourist attraction on Trip Adviser, with 107 out of 150 independent reviewers giving it 5 out of 5 and 37 more giving it 4 stars out of 5.  Some of the guests said the following:

                ‘Unique place...’

                ‘Mesmerising is an understatement!’

                ‘Excellent view...’

                ‘Wow!’

With its fantastic historical provenance and because of the unique experience it has to offer, this is a place that must be visited while in Armenia.

Buono La Cucina Italiana Restaurant, Yerevans

Buono La Cucina Italiana Restaurant 

Do you love good Italian food?  Well, you may want to try Buono Restaurant, which provides delicious traditional Italian food from all corners of Italy in a clean, simple, chic and classic surroundings.  Arthur Yesayan, the Head Chef of this eatery, believes that everyone can cook, as long as they have the correct skills.  Therefore, he uses his skills to ensure that the individual tastes of his guests are met with visually pleasing and exceptionally tasty dishes.  And with dishes varying in price between just over £3 to just under £7, this makes it extremely good value!

Location and Opening Times
Buono La Cucina Italiana Restaurant is based at Cascade, Tamanyan 1/1, Yerevan 0052, Armenia and the staff will welcome you every day between 11:00 and 24:00.

Food and Beverages
As previously stated, this establishment serves you Italian food – everything from an array of starters, soups, hot snacks, cold snacks, pasta, risottos, grilled dishes, side dishes, a variety of main dishes and puddings. These dishes include fish (salmon, prawns, trout and shrimp), meat (duck, lamb, beef steak, T-bone steak, pork, ham and chicken) and even cater for the vegetarian (although, this is more limited) – therefore, there is something to suit everybody’s tastes. However, their most recommended dishes are: Milaneze Spinach Soup with Beef; Lamb Carre served with Polenta and Asparagus; A Piece of Beef with Grilled Oyster Mushrooms; Mixed Salad with Mutton and Carpaccio; Ricotta Semifredo; and Chef’s Sweet Ravioli served with Honey Ice Cream. It all sounds so appetising, doesn’t it? I don’t know about you, but my mouth is watering, already!

Other Services

You must ring and book a table in advance.

This establishment also offers catering services anywhere in Armenia, for a price.  If you would like to discuss this with the restaurant, then give them a ring on 91307800.

Trip Adviser Ratings and Testimonials

Buono Restaurant is ranked 17^th out of 199 places to eat in Armenia on Trip Adviser, awarded  5 out of 5 stars overall – 5 out of 5 independent reviewers giving it 5 out of 5.  Some of the guests said the following:

                ‘Buono is a very good place...’

                ‘We discovered a new tasty kitchen.’

                ‘This is one of the best places I have ever been to...’

                ‘Great restaurant, great cuisine!’

Overall, if you love Italian food then this is a great place to visit for a tasty lunch or a special dinner!

Cactus Restaurant, Yerevan

You may well ask why you would want to eat Mexican food whilst visiting Armenia, especially when Armenian food is so yummy.  However, you probably won’t want to eat Armenian food every night and, if you love Mexican food, you may just want to give the Cactus Restaurant a try.  Established in 2000, as the first Mexican restaurant in Yerevan, Cactus soon became very popular.  Its owners spent time in Mexico and cherished everything about it so much that they decided to launch their own Mexican experience in the heart of their home country.  High quality service combined with a cordial welcome, congenial atmosphere and live music has ensured that this restaurant has hosted a variety of festivals, won several contests and is a great place for families. 

Cactus Restaurant, Yerevan

Location and Opening Times
Cactus Restaurant is based at Cascade Mashtots Avenue 42, Yerevan, Armenia; it is open for lunch and dinner, every day.

Food and Beverages
As previously stated, this establishment serves you a huge selection of Mexican food from starters such as nachos, calamari, soups or filled potato skins through to mains such as a variety of salads, burgers, chilli con carne, ribs, steak, salmon steak, burritos, enchiladas, tacos or fajitas. They also cater for all tastes with options of shrimps, pork, chicken, beef or vegetables on most main dishes. Also, if you have your little one(s) with you, there is a special menu for cater for your children’s needs. To finish, there is also a wide range of deserts from ice cream to cheesecake.

In terms of drinks, they have one of the biggest bars in Armenia and stock a huge range of spirits, alongside a wide range of soft drinks. The barmen here have won worldwide competitions for their skills, so you may want to test their skills by ordering one of their exclusive cocktails while you are there.

Other Services

There are free parking facilities and free Wi-Fi, on site.

The restaurant offers a takeaway service with free delivery and a full catering service.  If you would like to take advantage of these services, you may want to contact the restaurant on 37410 53 99 39.

If you would like to take a closer look at what they offer, there is also a Facebook page available for you to join.

Trip Adviser Ratings and Testimonials

Buono Restaurant is ranked 18^th out of 199 places to eat in Armenia on Trip Adviser, awarded  4.5 out of 5 stars overall – 14 out of 26 independent reviewers giving it 5 out of 5 and 11 more giving it 4 out 5.  Some of the guests said the following:

                ‘As authentic as any Mexican restaurant east of the Black Sea.’

                ‘Best Mexican in Yerevan.’

                ‘A must-be place for everyone!’

                ‘Best Mexican food!’

Ultimately, this is a great place to go for a fun night out with the family!

Rise of the Armenian Theatre

Previously, I have discussed how Tigran the great commissioned the first Theatre in Armenia way back in 70BC, which was 14 years before the famous public theatres opened in Rome. Also, I went to discuss how it was Tigran’s son, Artavazd II, who championed early theatre in Armenia, even writing and directing many productions himself.

Armenian Theatre

Well now we can take a look at how Armenian theatre developed as we head in to the Middle Ages.

Les Mimes de l'Orient
When the independent Armenian kingdoms began to fall in the mid-14^th century theatre in Armenia was consigned to a series of theatre groups scattered across the region. Two centuries later and we know that the remnants of Armenian theatre continued to scattered in this manner from the writings of the French world traveller Charden.

In his work ‘Les Mimes de l'Orient’ he writes in detail about a performance at an Armenian mime theatre in Yeravan, 1664. Under Persian rule at the time, Armenia theatre prospered and Chardan goes on to explain that Armenian traditions were kept alive with mime action, complemented by song, instruments and dance, similar, he commented, to European opera.

Western Armenian Theatre
During the mid-18^th century European plays were being translated into classical Armenian, however, they rarely attracted big audiences and so productions became less common. Though, the plays were used in schools across the country to teach classical Armenian. 

Also, as was common at the time, plays were written by the clergy and put on by the students themselves. It was through the efforts of these dedicated few that the modern Western Armenian theatre was born.

Armenian Influence
As 1855 was drawing to a close the first Western Armenian theatre group was formed and their success led to the construction of new theatres in areas of Constantinople and it was not long before Armenian actors were appearing on Turkish stages in theatres across the land. So much so that scholars often refer to Armenians as having a significant impact on contemporary Turkish theatre.

New Era of Armenia Theatre
Conversely, it was not until the late 19th century that Armenian theatre took a major step forward within its own borders. Dramatists, such as Bedros Tourian (1852–1872), are credited with kick starting a new era of Armenia theatre and stepping away from the traditional classical theatre and setting a precedent for modern contemporary theatre in Armenia. Despite his young age at his death Tourian wrote over ten plays which were put into wide spread production across the country.

Shopping in Armenia

Enjoy shopping?  Do you plan to spend a day or two shopping while visiting Armenia’s capital?  Well, if shopping is something you enjoy, you won’t be disappointed!  There is a great mix of high end and high street shops for men, women and children, alongside more ethnic markets and shops, which are frequented by locals and tourists, alike. 

Shopping in Armenia

High End

If you like to ‘splash the cash’ and prefer quality over quantity, then you will be able to find an array of recognisable western brands such as Max Mara, Stefanel, LaGalleria, Escada, Emporio Armani, Burberry, Betty Barclay, Bally, Baby Dior, D & G Junior, Gant, Max & Co., Victoria’s Secrets and Ecco, with many other high end brands to discover. 

High Street

If you prefer the high street, there is also a plethora of recognisable western brands available to cater for your tastes, such as: BSB, River Island, Nougat London, Morgan, Etam, Mexx, Debenhams, Next, Benetton, Clarks, Mango and Mothercare, plus many other high street brands for the ardent shopper to unearth.

Jewellery

Do you fancy jewellery shopping for a memento of your trip to Armenia?  Then Yerevan has plenty to offer, such as Chronograph, L’Orange GOLD, Mercury, Peter Benjamin, Franck Muller, Swarovski, Di Donna and Tatteosian, which, among them, cater for both men and women and for those with very expensive tastes or those on a budget.

Books

If you forget to take any books with you to read during your visit or run out of reading material, then why don’t you head on down to either Macmillan Bookstore, which has a few English-language novels, or Noyan Tapan, which also has a few English-language novels plus books about Armenia.

Ethnic Markets and Shops

Vernissage Market is a weekend flea market which caters to both locals and tourists.  As a tourist visiting this market, you are unlikely to be shopping for car parts or plumbing fixtures, but you may want to spend time leisurely delving in to piles of antiques or looking for a collectable communist medal.  This market also offers you the chance peruse locally produced handicrafts and maybe even purchase a stunning one-of-a-kind chess set or an elaborately carved jewellery box.

Vernissage Art Market is located across from Opera Square and offers you the chance to purchase a real bargain at a negotiable price from either an art dealer or first hand from an artist.

The Salt Shack isn’t what it first may seem!  This fascinating shop sells an array of souvenirs and handicrafts, such as maps, books, jewellery, pottery, woven salt sacks, carpets, dolls and t-shirts and is definitely worth a browse.

Dalan Art Gallery is a must-see if you appreciate arts, crafts and other beautiful handmade objects.  This is a fantastic place to buy a souvenir of your trip and then relax with a cup of tea or coffee at the gallery’s wonderful cafe.

Made in Armenia Direct sells a fantastic array of handicrafts, handmade jewellery and religious iconography and is also a fabulous place to buy souvenirs of your visit.

On the whole, Yerevan has a lot to offer to the avid shopper, no matter what you are looking for, and, as this isn’t a definitive list I am sure that you will find some hidden treasures of your own during your visit.

Dolmama Restaurant, Yerevan

Dolmama Restaurant, Yerevan

Launched in 1998, Dolmama Restaurant in Yereven took on the uncertain task of reviving Eastern Armenian cooking, which had suffered through its area of origin having been part of The Soviet Union. It is a cuisine that the world is not particularly familiar with, unlike the fare of Western Armenia – therefore, if you decide to pay this restaurant a visit, you will be getting a truly unique gastronomic experience. The chefs in the restaurant use local organic produce to rejuvinate this indigenous style of cooking; also, they have made some small changes to the original recipes to ensure that what you are served is of the ultimate quality. A more upmarket experience to most Armenian restaurants, it is unlikely that you will be dissatisfied and it is not difficult to understand why this is yet another restaurant that received a Certificate of Excellence in 2013. Courses range in price from £3.70 - £16.40, which definitely makes it one of the more expensive restaurants in Armenia.

Location and Opening Times
Dolmama is located on 10 Pushkin Street (a few feet from Abovian Street), Yervan 0010, Armenia; unfortunately, no opening times are available.

Food and Beverages
This establishment is named after the traditional Eastern Armenian dish of Dolma, which is the restaurant’s signature dish with a modern twist (instead of being made with ground meat, it is made with a slice of sirloin). If this doesn’t tempt you, they also serve delicious soups; tasty salads; a wide range of appetisers; stews from rabbit and goat to beef and lamb; and mouth watering main courses including trout, quail, sturgeon, Cornish hen, steak and veal, as well as vegetarian options. There is also a tasting menu for those of you who can’t decide between these delectable offerings. Once you have finished your savoury courses, why not finish with a sweet treat from the dessert menu?

As for drinks, Dolmama offers everything from water and soft drinks, to tea and coffee, to beer, to Armenian wines or wine of the world, to spirits and liquors – it just depends what you are in the mood for!

Other Services
Dolmama has both a website for you to browse and a Facebook page, which is a little more intimate and allows you to peruse special menus and observe videos of recipes being prepared by the restaurant’s chef.

Trip Adviser Ratings and Testimonials
Cafe Central is ranked 14th out of 199 places to eat in Armenia on Trip Adviser, awarded 4.5 out of 5 stars overall – 66 out of 117 independent reviewers giving it 5 out of 5 and 32 more giving it 4 stars out of 5. Some of the guests said the following:

‘Armenian delights!’

‘One of the best restaurants ever tried!’

‘Excellent restaurant with a very nice setting.’

‘Excellent food and good atmosphere.’

Tempted? If you want a special night out whilst visiting the capital, then this jewel offers you everything you could possibly want.

Health Tips for Travelling to Armenia

When travelling to any country outside your continent, it is essential that you ensure that you are as safe as possible – whether you are travelling independently or with your family.  Safety normally begins with ensuring you have the appropriate vaccinations and insurance in preparation for your trip.  Therefore, reading through the following advice and information should help you plan to both protect your health and cover your health during your trip.

Health Care

Vaccinations

The information given on different websites about vaccinations is conflicting – some say that you do not need any vaccinations for travelling in Armenia, some recommend certain vaccinations and some recommend certain vaccinations for visiting certain areas.  From a common sense point of view, you would be wise to visit your GP/doctor at least 8 weeks before you travel and discuss/arrange for the following vaccinations:

·         Tetanus-diptheria – if you have not had this immunisation within the last 10 years.
·         Hepatitis A
·         Typhoid – if you intend to eat or drink anywhere other than the major hotels or restaurants.
·         Hepatitis B
·         Polio – if you had the series of injections as a child, but have not had one-time booster as an adult.
·         Measles, mumps and rubella (MMR) – two doses, if not previously administered.
·         Cholera – if you are considered to be a high risk.

Insurance

You should always purchase travel insurance as soon as you have booked your holiday.  However, the doctors and hospitals in Armenia will expect cash payment for their services, so, in terms of health insurance there are certain things that you should be aware of and asking questions about when purchasing.  If you have an existing travel insurance policy, make sure that it covers travel to Armenia; check that your policy covers emergency situations, such as medical evacuation; and double check as to whether payment will be directly made to the overseas provider of medical care or whether you will be reimbursed for incurred expenses upon return.

Disease and Medication

If you take any medication regularly, then you must ensure that you take enough with you, in its original container(s), to cover the period of your visit.  Pack your medication in your hand luggage and carry a letter from your GP/doctor explaining what medical condition(s) you have and what medication(s) you require for these; if you need needles or syringes then you will need an additional letter to document the necessity of these.  Also, ensure that you are carrying a duplicate of all medication(s) in your checked-in luggage, just in case. 

If you have any significant allergies or any chronic medical issues, then please make sure you wear a medical/medic alert bracelet with the details of these inside.

Diarrhoea is generally the most common ailment reported for those travelling to Armenia.  The water is considered to be very clean and safe from sources that have been chemically disinfected, or if the water has been boiled or filtered.  However, it is always better to be safe than sorry and you should:

·         avoid bottled drinks or beverages with ice;

·         avoid fruits and vegetables which are not peeled or cooked;

·         stay away from cooked foodstuff which is not piping hot or which have been left at room temperature for a significant period of time;

·         avoid milk that has not been pasteurised or milk products made from milk that has not been pasteurised;

·         stay away from food sold by street vendors; and

·         ensure you do not eat raw or uncooked fish or meat (some fish may be harmful even when cooked, such as barracuda, red snapper, grouper, amberjack and sea bass).

To be fair, no matter how careful you are, sometimes you can still contract diarrhoea.  With this in mind, it makes perfect sense to take an antibiotic and anti-diarrhoeal drug with you on your travels.  Again, it would be wise to discuss which of these would be suitable for you, or members of your family, with your doctor prior to travelling.

Malaria is only an issue if you are planning to travel to the Ararat Valley, in the Ararat and Artashat region, located in the west of Armenia near the border with Turkey.  The Masis district is considered the area of maximum risk and the height of transmission is in the period between June and October.  If you would like clarification as to the part of the country being discussed, it would be wise to go to the World Health Organisation’s website to observe their map of risk around the world at: http://www.who.int/malaria/travellers/en/.

To protect yourself if you are visiting the aforementioned region in the aforementioned period of time, there are things you can do to reduce your risk of contracting malaria, such as:

·         Ensure you wear long sleeves, long trousers and a hat;

·         Apply insect repellents (speak to a pharmacist about the appropriate one     and how to use it, especially with those under 2 years of age);

·         DO NOT sleep with the window open at night; and

·         Use a mosquito net infused with insect repellent and make certain that it is tucked under the mattress.

Medical Facilities

Finally, although there are numerous medical facilities with qualified doctors available, unfortunately, the medical facilities outside of Armenia’s capital city of Yerevan are generally considered to be poor.  Therefore, outside of this safety zone, treatment is not usually suggested for anything more than trivial or uncomplicated illnesses.  However, if you do find that you require medical services during your visit, then dial 103 and request an ambulance.  

The First Armenian Theatre

Armenian Theatre

The Theatre in Armenia has a long and colourful history. As with many countries in the region Armenian theatre has its roots in the theatre of antiquity. Interestingly, the first recorded reference to a theatre in Armenia goes back as far as 70BC. Built fourteen years before the first public theatres in Rome, it opened its doors to the public in 69BC during the reign of Tigran the Great.

Champion of Armenian Theatre
It was Tigran’s son, Artavazd II, who championed the Theatre in Armenia and wrote a number of Greek tragedies himself. He also went on to write a number of orations, historical stories and other work some which survived into the second century AD.

In Artashat, the former capital of the region, Artavazd himself commissioned the building of Armenia’s second public theatre. It was at this new theatre that the comedies of Menander and the tragedies of Euipides were shown to an eager public. These plays went down very well with the public and the theatre increasing became a part of Armenian life.

First Armenian Playwright
Due to his prominent involvement with early Armenian theatre Artavazd is considered to be the first Armenian playwright and the father of classical Armenian theatre. Records from the time tell us how, in 53 BC, the Bacchae of Euripides was directed to great applause by Artavazd himself.

Golden Age of Armenian Theatre
The 5th Century is considered by scholars to the golden age of classical Armenian theatre. It was a time when the bible was translated into Armenian and the region made great strides in medicine, technology and the theatre was no different. However, this time of creative freedom for the theatre came to an abrupt end in the 7th Century when war with their Arab neighbours resulted in an invasion and all progress stalled. The theatre was one of the few features of Armenian culture that did not suffer a decline through the 8th and 9th centuries, due to war and occupation.

Revival
It was not until the 11th century that Armenian theatre was able to make a comeback in the public eye and right through to the 14th century saw continual improvement. In fact, Armenian theatre grew to new heights with an emphasis on tragic theatre with a resurgence of epic productions from history. Incidentally, the rise of the comic theatre, which satirized the social classes, saw the theatre become much more accessible for the average patron.

In a later article I will discuss Armenian theatre from the Middle Ages where an influx of plays from Europe increased the theatres popularity and then on to the heyday of the Shakespearean plays of the 18th century.