Friday, January 31, 2014

Khor Virap Monastery

If you choose to visit The Monastery of Geghard whilst you are in Armenia, it may well be that Khor Virap Monastery, located 2.5 miles from Lusarvat Village in the Ararat Valley (or 19 miles north of Yerevan), will also be of interest to you.  Situated on a hill close to the snow-capped peaks of Mount Ararat (the national symbol of Armenia) and surrounded by archaeological sites (started in 1970 but still being excavated in the present day), this historical edifice affords visitors magnificent views of both the mountain and the green belt along the Arax (or Arakas) River, which represents the boundary with Turkey (where there are a series of military lookout posts).

Khor Virap Monastery
History
Khor Virap is one of the top tourist destinations in Armenia because of the part it played in shaping the history of Armenia.  Khor Virap literally translates as ‘deep dungeon’ and it was named such because a deep dungeon, located in Artashat, was where the pagan King Tiridates III imprisoned his assistant, Grigor Lusavorich (Saint Gregory the Illuminator). 
Prior to his imprisonment, Grigor was relentlessly tortured because of his commitment to the Christian religion and his refusal to offer sacrifice to the pagan goddess Anahita.  However, after the King was given notice that his father had been murdered by Grigor’s father, he ordered that Grigor should, instead, have his hands and legs bound, be thrown in to the deep, dark pit and left to die.  Over the next 13 years, Grigor was forgotten by the King and presumed dead (and probably would have died if it hadn’t been for a Christian widow that dropped him food in to the pit, every day). 

During Grigor’s imprisonment, the King continued to pursue wars, persecute Christians and commit unspeakable atrocities (including the murder of Rhipsime) and was eventually sent mad as penance for his actions.  As the King went mad, both his household and the people of the city were said to fall under the possession of demons.  However, King Tiridates’ sister dreamt of an angel who told her that Grigor could end the torments of the King and his people.  It was thought that Grigor had died within days of being cast in to the pit, but when Prince Awtay went to look, he found that the King’s former assistant was, indeed, alive.  Brought out of the pit in a terrible state, Grigor was taken to the King, miraculously curing him of his ailment, despite knowing the atrocities that the King had committed. 

In thankfulness for what Grigor had done, the King and his court approached him for forgiveness for the sins they had perpetrated and adopted Christianity as their new faith.  Grigor was afforded the title of Bishop of Caesarea and began preaching Christianity to the King, his court and his army and, in 301 AD, Christianity was declared as the state religion of Armenia.

Structure
Erected by the builder Nerses III in the 5th century, the original chapel that was built around the pit where Saint Gregory the Illuminator spent his 13 years of captivity was constructed of white limestone.  The monastery, which stands today, was built later around the enclosure that surrounded the ruins of Nerses’ Chapel and the final addition of the large, but plain, church dedicated to Saint Astvatsatsin was made in the 17th century and is, apparently, a typical Armenian build of that time.  It to the southwest of this church, in the St. Gevorg chapel, that Saint Gregory’s pit can be located.  Be warned: there are actually two holes which are accessible to the public in this building, but care must be taken as there are no markings to indicate their presence to you! 

However, although you may like to explore both holes, you will find the one that leads to the pit that held Saint Gregory in the main room, to the right of the altar.  A long ladder leads you down in to the pit, which descends 20 feet (or 6 metres) below ground.  Once there, you may find yourself surprised at the fact that this underground prison cell is 14 feet across.  Although, if you imagine it without any light whatsoever and with a lack of circulation, then it must have been a miserable place to have spent 13 years of your life.

What to Expect
This is still an active place of worship and, as such, you will still see weddings being held here.  Again, please be respectful of these ceremonies.
However, Khor Virap is a huge tourist destination, so also expect vibrancy...with performances, souvenir kiosks, snack stands and...best of all...doves being sold for release, in the hope that they will fly to Mount Ararat.

Tourist Advice
If you are planning to visit in the Armenian summer, temperatures can become very high; therefore, it may be best to consider visiting in the morning.
If you are planning to climb down to St. Gregory’s cell when visiting Khor Virap, ensure you wear sturdy shoes in preparation for the climb down the ladder.  Also, if you are planning to do this in the heat of the Armenian summer, the lack of circulation means the cell is exceptionally humid; therefore, be advised that taking a flashlight/torch with you may be preferable to taking candles (as these only add to the humidity).
Due to the fact that you are visiting what is considered to still be an active place of worship, be respectful of this and ensure that you are appropriately dressed (long sleeves and covered to your knees).

Trip Adviser Ratings and Testimonials
Khor Virap is ranked as the Number 3 Armenian tourist attraction on Trip Adviser, with 107 out of 150 independent reviewers giving it 5 out of 5 and 37 more giving it 4 stars out of 5.  Some of the guests said the following:

                ‘Unique place...’
                ‘Mesmerising is an understatement!’
                ‘Excellent view...’
                ‘Wow!’


With its fantastic historical provenance and because of the unique experience it has to offer, this is a place that must be visited while in Armenia.

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